Brawls and Bats

Bats. Hundreds of thousands of bats. I don’t know what kind of obsessive, single-minded demon possessed me, but before leaving Cambodia I remained hell-bent on watching a parade of bats spill out of a cave in droves, as if that was the climax of my journey and would put my mind at ease forever. However, […]

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Fishing with the locals

For one week, I sat alone on the island of Koh Rong Sanloem off the coast of southern Cambodia strumming my ukulele, reading Thoreau’s very pertinent solitary work Walden, and building profound sand castles of contemplation as the summer storms and midday sun played leap frog in the sky. Serenity at last. Finding solitude on […]

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Creepy Cambodia

I love Cambodia, but it’s creepy as hell. I entered the country and didn’t stop moving. The bus from Laos dropped me off in Stueng Traeng in the north and I only saw the inside of one little cafe before I made for the highway. A lonely biker dropped me at an intersection where a […]

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Cruising through Laos

My Estonian friend, Roxanne and I rolled clear of Vang Vieng’s grime and bumped and bounced our way into Buddha Park in Lao’s capital Vientiane. We raised eyebrows at the Buddhist-Hindu metamorphosis of statues preserved since the ancient 1950’s. Merely passing through, we soon took off southward to Thakhek. There are two multi-day motorbike loops […]

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The Battle to Civilization

People lose many days in northern Laos. River valley bungalows and cheap narcotics, with nothing else to do in towns without electricity, seduce foreign tourists into a deluded paradise. Although the region is beautiful, the best thing to do is to keep moving. We escaped tiny Muang Khoa after the first day in the country. […]

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The Long Road to Laos

I turned over my rented kayak and motorbike and said ‘goodbye’ and ‘thank you’ to invigorating days on northeastern Vietnam’s Cat Ba Island. My new goal: tracing my newly made Australian friend, Sydney, somewhere in the western wilderness and finding a janky way of stumbling into Laos. I returned to Hanoi and immediately rolled over […]

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This one’s for the kids

This one’s for the kids. For the Vietnamese kids to be more specific; everyone who aided me when I was dumbfounded and lost in northern Vietnam. I rolled out of my mountain days in Pu Luong on the back of a motorbike whizzing through a downpour. Avic, a guide and friend, drove like a soldier, […]

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Teacher! Teacher! Teacher!

When in your life have you been able to waltz off the street and into the classroom – to be the teacher? Sapa is known as one of Vietnam’s most beautiful regions in the north. Drive a motorbike around the mountains and every turn greets you with stunning peaks, crystal waterfalls, and green rice terraces […]

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Kidnap seemed likely

I know I’ve met fun people when they encourage me to do something about which my Mom would be horrified to hear. (Sorry Mom). I rolled into Hue, Vietnam after saying sorrowful goodbyes to the lovely Hoi An. Within the first half hour I arranged a company of avid explorers seeking to subvert the world […]

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Mot, Hai, Ba, YO!

“Mot, hai, ba, YOOO!” I heard this again and again from all corners of the late evening cafe. “It’s cheers,” said Riley, an Irishman whose eyes shined with bliss as he viewed the scene. We were the only foreigners in a local, side-street cafe past the hour of dinner time patrons. “Watch this,” he said. […]

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